Classic Drainage, Inc. Questions and Answers Page
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Q: I have a hillside in my backyard and water flows towards my house. The front of house is lower grade. M. Hotchkins, Vienna, VA.
A: If the front yard is lower, proper grading will solve this problem. Follow the rule of 2 inch drop per 10 feet minimum. So, if you have 60 feet of yard to drain from high point to low point, you will need at least 12 inches of drop difference. If you do not have sufficient drop, you will need to install swales with french drain or catch basin work within the low point of the swale, constructed with a drainage pipe. The drainage pipe should be taken to a lower grade exit.
Q: I am considering having pop up emitters (made by NDS) installed at the outlets of my buried downspout drainage pipes. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated? S. Capsman, Vienna, VA.
A: We recommend an open end known as “daylighting” the pipe exit, and NOT with a pop up emitter or any type of grate. Debris from the gutter/ downspouts will clog up at the in the “pop up” or grate. This will cause water to back up and lead to other problems, possibly a flood in the lower level of your home. If you must use a pop up emitter, remember to check/ clear it frequently for blockages.
Q: My yard is soggy. I have had a landscaper, a drainage company, and a soil engineer look at the problem. All three have very different solutions. I am at a loss for deciding the correct remedy. I would like your company to look at the problem and offer some advice? T. Werling, McLean, VA.
A: First, find out what is creating the soggy yard problem. Is it a low spot in the yard, roof runoff, negative grade, subsurface spring, repetitive sump pump discharge, or a buried drainage pipe that has no outlet…but seeps long after rains? Once the source is determined, a drainage solution can be installed.
Q: What are the differences of PVC drainage pipe vs. corrugated drainage pipe such as installation procedures and your experience with them? I am looking into burying my downspout to take them away from the house, and keep costs down. B. Glass, Great Falls, VA.
A: Always install PVC (2729 pvc, SDR 35, or SCH 40), unless you have to cut expenses and go with corrugated pipe (CP). CP is best for use in garden/ mulch beds, with end to end design (no fittings, fittings LEAK!). Follow these rules when installing CP in yards: make sure all trenches are sloping, clean, and bottom compacted. CP is a flexible pipe and will lay in any trench you create…good, bad, uphill, and downhill. Install CP with a gravel bed, if bottom of trench will not “hard” compact. We do not recommend connecting multiple drain pipes into one “main” pipe. Tree or vegetation roots will seek water and enter through the fitting/ pipe connections, leading to a massive clog. If your design must include fittings, surround them in a fast setting concrete. Surround CP in gravel before backfilling to provide additional strength should any heavy equipment travel through your yard. Flush CP every spring and fall with garden hose and liquid dish soap. Also make sure all CP exits are free of overgrowth and debris.
A: Follow these rules when installing PVC: make sure all trenches are sloping, clean, and bottom compacted. Install PVC with a gravel bed, if bottom of trench will not “hard” compact. You can install PVC with multiple drain pipes into one “main” pipe. Make sure to glue all fittings and press all connections firmly together before glue sets. Also installing some screws (#8 hex head self tapping 3/4″ stainless steel) is not a bad idea. Install clean out access points as needed. Flush PVC every spring and fall with garden hose and liquid dish soap. PVC drain pipe installation cost is only about 15% more than CP, and has many more long term/ maintenance free benefits.
Q: I would like to know what you offer to keep the underground drainage pipes from blocking with leaves? I am thinking about using an NDS catch basin between the downspout elbow exit and the actual drainage pipe coming off the catch basin. The grate on the catch basin would act as a “screen” to keep leaves and debris from getting into drainage pipe. I am located in a heavily wooded area. K. Robey, Great Falls, VA.
A: I would first recommend getting a leaf free gutter system, if you do not have one. NDS is not the best choice anymore. They recommend using a catch basin (old school) as a trap to solve this problem (like you stated). It works if the top is kept clean, but cannot capture all of the water coming from a downspout in a heavy downpour, letting much dangerous water flood out next to the foundation, and possibly into the basement. Not a good water tight solution. We have maintenance free solutions that can handle heavy downpours, and deflect leaves/ debris. Contact us for an estimate.